May 17, 1998Some of this report will be the same as the last where situations have not changed
The rains are still falling in Galapagos but so are the water temperatures at least. All over the entire archipelago the water temperatures are almost 2 degrees F. lower than in the previous weeks. There is also a noticeable thermocline. It might be too late for some of the corals though as they are not only bleached but also algae covered in some areas. The surface water temperature was 84.5 F. (29.2 C.) at Tower on May 10 and the same at Fernandina. This is still quite hot but a noticeable change from before. Devil's Crown water was 83.5 F. (28.6 C.) at the surface with a pronounced thermocline. The coolest surface water temperature that I have recorded at the surface this year was on May 15 at Gardner Bay. The temperature was just under 82 F. (27.5 C.) at Gardner Island.
Richard Wollecombe reported water at 62 F. (16.7 C.) at a depth of 120 feet while diving at Cabo Marshall (Isla Isabela)! The surface temperatures were still high though.
The most striking change in general is in the wind direction and speed. The winds have now shifted to the Southeast and the SE trades are predominating with enough force to cause an 8 to 10 foot (2.5 to 3 meter) SE swell in the southern part of Galápagos. Other observers noted this fairly abrupt change all over the archipelago during the week May 10-17. This is also causing more upwelling in the eastern pacific. Looking at the sea surface temperature maps provided by NOAA, we are finally seeing evidence of the equatorial upwelling and the upwelling of the Peru or Humboldt Current.
One of the most encouraging biological signs that I have seen are the large numbers of Waved Albatross. The visitor site at Hood has hundreds rafting near shore and many nesting. I have observed mating but no eggs yet. The surface vegetation that has been choking the area is dying back and the birds are managing to trample down "runways". The traditional blue footed booby nesting area at the visitor site is also being opened up because of the dying vegetation and a few boobies are visiting. Masked Boobies are starting to show nesting behavior (arranging pebbles in the nesting site) but no courting was observed. Swallow-tailed Gulls are starting to court for the first time in months. Two males were seen regurgitating food for females.
Some things seem somewhat inexplicable such as which Palo Santos have leaves or not. On Tower, they have all dropped their leaves even though there is standing water from heavy rain. At Tagus Cove, which is being heavily rained on, the Palo Santos still have their leaves. In conversations with locals, it is apparent that they will drop their leaves even if the rains continue sometimes. They just "give up". It appears that this is true in some cases and others not.
Iguana mortality remains high especially at Fernandina with large males suffering the most. The sea lions appear to be doing better but mainly because the starving ones have already died. Large males seem to be affected the most. (It has been suggested that this is only because the pups decay more rapidly but even the bones lying around are mainly bulls.)
In brief, things seem to be normalizing in the islands and the Niño is abating.
Specific observations follow:
May 10
Tower - Darwin Bay
There are now many displaying Great Frigates. The water temperature was measured to be 84.5 degrees F. at the surface. Adult Swallow Tailed Gulls are returning and there are breeding Red Billed Tropic Birds in the cliff faces.
Tower - Prince Philip Steps
Storm petrels are beginning to nest. It is curious that although there is a lot of vegetation, there are basically no leaves on the Palo Santo trees.
May 11
Fernandina - Punta Espinoza
Flightless Cormorants roosting but no nesting at the visitor site. The marine iguanas are fairing poorly with reduced numbers and many dead ones about.
Isabela - Tagus Cove
There is a definite trend for sudden downpours at Tagus Cove in the late afternoon every day. The Palo Santo trees are lush.
May 12
Santiago - Puerto Egas
The numbers of fur seals in the grottos seemed to be about normal. Very few marine iguanas.
Bartolomé
Individual penguins were seen spread about and actively feeding. They appear to be healthy.
May 13North Seymour
Magnificent Frigates are displaying in the interior of the colony. Great Frigates are nesting near the shore. There are very few sea lions and not the normal number of marine iguanas. Almost no swallow tailed gulls are about and none nesting. On the trip to South Plaza from North Seymour, there are numerous waterfalls on the cliffs of Santa Cruz!
South Plaza
Most sea lion pups are malnourished. There are quite a few dead pups.
The land iguanas are still very spread out over the island. The vegetation is getting so high that it is getting harder to see them although many seem to prefer the trail. It is curious that even with all of the lush green vegetation, the land iguanas are preferring the drier Tequilia as a food source.
May 14Floreana - Punta Cormorant
7Flamingos were in the lagoon. The lagoon itself was at a high level and is quite fresh (to taste). The rains have been cutting ravines into the visitor trail. No stingrays have been seen at the stingray beach in quite a while. The water temperature in Devil's Crown is still around 83.5 degrees F. at the surface and there is a definite thermocline now.
Black Beach
The stream now flowing out of the highlands and running into Black Beach has dried up and the locals are reporting less rain
May 15
Española - Punta Suárez
Conditions are definitely improving (see above) At least 600 Waved Albatross floating in rafts near shore. Several are nesting on the visitor trail. Very strong winds are blowing out of the SE.
Española - Gardner bay
Lots of sea lions (75) were hauled up on the beach and mainly looking good. There were some pups with females. The surf seems to have died down some from previous weeks so that normal landings are possible. Much of the sand has been shifted on the beach though and a stream runs through it. 3 dead Pilot Whales were floating near shore. Curious that there would be 3 dead ones so close together and floating by with the current.
As always, this report is a general overview and impression. I am also concentrating on the differences from normal (or unexpected normality!) I am not attempting to make a census so if I don't mention an animal, it doesn't mean that it isn't there.
