July 18, 1998
Richard Polatty

I have just returned to Puerto Ayora from a week in the islands (July 11-18). El Niño has indeed abated and things are returning to normal in Galapagos. It was none too soon as the carnage of El Niño is readily apparent in a lot of areas. Many of the largest male marine iguanas at Fernandina are now skeletons on the rocks.

The weather in general is getting to be much nearer seasonal norms with the surface water temperatures averaging 72 to 74 degrees F. in most of the central, southern, and northern islands. The west has gotten quite cold and a low temperature of 65.5 F was measured at the water surface around Punta Espinoza, Fernandina. The air temperatures are falling with the sea temperatures but still a bit unseasonably warm (around 80 to 85 F.) The night time temperatures are down into the mid 60s. There have been reports of garua already but I did not feel any. In short, its time to pull out the wetsuits again! I don't have any reports on temps below the thermocline but I should have some by next week.

In general, the surviving animal population seems to be doing well. Apparently the weakest sea lions and marine iguanas have already died. There is still plenty of evidence of carcasses spread everywhere in the sea lion and iguana colonies. Palo Santos are all losing their leaves and the denser El Niño generated undergrowth is drying up and dying back. Sea birds are recovering and the boobies (masked and blue foot) are starting to breed. There are masses of wedge-rumped storm petrels at Tower. There seems to be an air of rejuvenation about as everything returns to normal. One can watch the physical process of cooling off by checking sources such as sea surface temperature maps provided by NOAA. Also look at the looped images mirrored on this site for the development of El Nino and La Nina.

For specific island reports:


July 11 - North Seymour

Blue footed boobies courting and mating on the beach and on the middle part of the trail. No nesting on the first part of the inland trail near the landing. No eggs yet.

July 12 - South Plaza

Land iguanas still fairly dispersed over the island. Underbrush is dying back. Several (2) of the large cacti at the landing dock  have fallen over.

July 13 - Tower

Lots of Masked boobies nesting. Some at the beach but many at El Barranco. Some already have eggs. There are still a few great frigates still displaying (rather late in the year).

July 14 - Fernandina

Water surface temperature 65.5 (very cold) Most of the algal beds near the far point at Punta Espinoza are barren. Many iguana carcasses all over the normal colonies.

 FlightlessCormorants are nesting (one pair). Interesting nest made of pencil urchins.

July 15 - Tagus Cove, Isabela

Penguins present in normal numbers. Palo Santos without leaves.

July 15 - Bartolomé

water temperature 73.9 F

July 16 - Punta Cormorant

3 Flamingos, 1 White cheeked Pintail, lagoon very dry

Devil's Crown water temp 72

July 17 - Punta Suárez, Hood

Masked boobies courting but no blue footed boobies courting. No eggs. Traditional nesting areas for blue foots are still covered with vegetation. Albatross are rafting in large numbers off-shore. Some are nesting.

Gardner Bay

Lots of sea lions and territorial bulls.

Water temps 72 F. at Gardner and 74 F. at Tortuga

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